The Coquillage’s first menu for 2015 affirms a taste for nature, while getting closer to the producers.

As always, the Coquillage affirms its bias: products produced by talented and authentic men and women, local and pure products that become part of a magnificent story once they are cooked in the restaurant’s kitchen.  My team and I are working to promote the work of our producers. It is our way to fight against the standardization of agriculture, that is too often transformed into an industry… 

Nature is queen in this menu inaugurating 2015. The shells were collected diving, the vegetables are very young, spring is already here. Scallops can express all of their flavours thanks to the sea water and Fulvio Pierangelini’s Tuscan olive oil, enhanced with a hint of mojita, a mild and lightly smoked hot pepper. Oysters are in season right now, they are served warm with early potatoes and the first morels that have a little taste of hazelnut, like the oysters. A cream flavoured with Gallo powder makes the oyster even more gourmand while underlining its Celtic spirit. The last clams, these rare and fragile shells, are served with just a dash of Kampot pepper, sea weed and parsley and the marine consommé made of sea weed, spring sprouts and local saffron affirms its Briton identity amongst the local winter vegetables, root vegetables, carrots from the bay, Jerusalem artichoke and wild fennel from the chemin des douaniers… a few crayfishes too.

Even though I love the Relais Gourmand’s*** classics, the Retour des Indes john dory and the cocoa lobster, there is no better dish for me than the delicious sole just lightly cooked in salted butter. It is simple and pure. The cockles, cooked marinière style, mix cilantro, ginger, galangal, caripoulé leafs and shallots for a fragrance that recalls of the history of Cochinchina and the relationships between South-East Asia and Brittany.

Sweetbreads and salsify have similar textures; they are cooked in a sauce of Normandy cream, mushrooms and Noilly Prat to underline their fullness and bitterness. The pigeon, which is now produced by our friend Paul’s son, travels to Mexico with its burnt hot pepper and cocoa sauce, deep, rich, paired with the Saint Malo chutney made of pineapple, pear and apple. Until 1914, pineapples were cultivated in green houses in Saint Malo and were used very green, as a vegetable, not a fruit. This acidity it brings in the chutney is wonderful with the pigeon…

This menu is a spring foretaste and brings to the table the iodic flavours of the sea spray, the shells and fishes, pure, dreaming of faraway or imaginary destinations.